A Tour of Lancaster Castle

Lancaster Castle Tour

Suddenly, a woman in a long black cloak appears, as if from nowhere. I find myself stood in a group of around 20, or so, anticipant people, from a range of age groups, and we’re about to embark on a tour of the historically significant Lancaster Castle.

Leaving the souvenir shop, on the half hour, we begin to file down and around the first narrow corridors, of this over 800-year-old building, which has earned the status of England’s oldest working prison…

The main courtroom (built c.1796), opens the tour with its incredible collection of heraldry shields, from over the centuries. The high-ceilinged, grandly-designed space has been an intimidating setting for criminals’ trials, seemingly, forever. Decorated with larger than life portraits of previous magistrates and a replica of the Palace of Westminster, this place is impressive.

The lady in black gives us plenty of information about the history and detail of the room, including pointing out, and explaining the meaning of, the red roses which have been incorporated into the patterns of the ceiling. After this quick run down we are free to explore the room at our leisure, sit in seats, have a close-up look at the exhibits along the back wall, and so on, to our hearts’ content. Photography, however, is not allowed in England’s court rooms, so if you want to capture a memory you might need to take your coloured chalks with you.

After ample exploration time, we move on along some more corridors and down one or two small stairwells until we arrive in a compact foyer. This area’s role in the tour is as a prelude to the entrance to the Museum of Crime and Punishment, which the castle plays host to. The foyer has some interesting black and white photography of a few of Lancaster’s current inmates, on the wall. One of whom proudly presents his bulldog tattoo to the camera lens.

The Museum of Crime and Punishment is housed in a circular structure which, according to the aforementioned Mrs. Black, was made of stone sourced from the local village of Heysham.

Plenty of gruesome sights are to be seen down here (not for softies!), the scold’s bridal and cat o’ nine tails are among the attitude adjusting devices on show. Mercifully, for the boys on the foyer wall, we’re told that the ‘cat’ hasn’t been used since 1916.

It’s amazing to see how far the criminal justice system, in this country, has evolved when you learn that hundreds of people were once hung for stealing items as trivial as cutlery. The treatment of the mentally ill, as criminals, was also a common feature of ancient punishment. You can take a seat in the museum’s hardwood ‘Lunatic’s Chair’, during your free-roaming time in this particular part of the castle. Luckily you won’t be shackled into it for months on end, like inmates once were.

More winding corridors are just around the corner, and we venture deeper into the dark underbelly of the castle. We’re ‘sent down’ some more steps until we reach the cellblock…

Six low and wide iron doors, with immovable bolts, welcome us. We’re told that the earth floors and straw bedding were par for the course of ancient prison life. Multiple people would have been crammed into these uncomfortable cells, with little light and heat. We’re shown, by our guide, a recreation of the candlelit conditions of the past (this is not a recommended experience for softies either).

All of this intriguing detail was well in keeping with the ‘Punishment not Reform’ philosophy of the British criminal justice system of the 18^th Century. Those who weren’t fortunate enough to be given a swift public execution often passed away in these conditions and didn’t even make it to a fair trial, let alone the gallows, our group are told.

Probably the most famous of the criminals associated with Lancaster Castle are the Demdyke and Chattock families, popularly known as the Pendle Witches. Their experience of prison conditions was especially typical of the time, with the eldest passing away in custody, according to the black-caped lady.

Finally, the Lancaster 20 are released back into the daylight.

The conclusion of the castle tour occurs outside. We’re told that we will be permitted to take photographs of the exterior of the castle but are, first, led to ‘hanging corner’!. This nook in the side of the castle was the site of 225 individual hangings and, supposedly, a fair number of these people were buried in unmarked graves, below what is now the concrete of the castle car park and accompanying walkway (that’s the last time I take a shortcut into town!). The lady in the black garment goes on to tell us how everyday phrases, such as ‘money for old rope’ and ‘pulling your leg’, relate to the corporal punishment practices of days gone by and then she sets us free to snap some pictures of the perfectly preserved exterior of the castle, the neighbouring priory church and their relaxing grounds.

Although I attended on a Monday morning, in truth the best time to take in a visit may be on Saturday, as tours are sometimes limited, during the week, due to the courts being in session. The mysterious ‘Drop Room’ was out of bounds during my trip, hopefully no-one was being surreptitiously noosed in there.

On the plus side, when court is in session, there are public galleries which one can access in order to witness a genuine modern day trial taking place, an opportunity that any sober law student shouldn’t miss.

Aimed at history buffs, the informative Castle Tours may be slightly too lengthy and wordy for younger children. Taking in the vast history of the castle would probably prove to be too much for a little one’s attention span. I’d definitely say, though, that a visit would be five quid well spent for any interested adults.

Lancaster Castle Tours take place every half hour from 10:30am-4:00pm (inclusive), priced at £5 (Adult), £4 (Child/Concession) and £14 (Family Ticket). For more information about the castle and tours contact the Visitor Information Centre on 01524 582394.

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